今年政府工作报告强调把恢复和扩大消费摆在优先位置，“如何激发消费活力”成为今年两会上代表委员的关注热点。数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
全国人大代表，北京都一处前门店副经理、烧麦总厨师长吴华侠感受尤为深刻，“这两天前来采访我的媒体记者，大家关注的都是老字号如何创新发展、如何激发消费活动等。”作为本届人代会的新代表，吴华侠也在逐渐适应她的全国人大代表身份，从最初面对媒体的紧张，到现在能够侃侃而谈。
首次参加全国两会，吴华侠带来了好几份建议，包括建立国家级老字号“数字”博物馆、建设“蓝领公寓”、解决生活服务业人群居住问题、推动餐饮行业绿色可持续发展等。在接受新京报记者专访时，吴华侠表示，都一处近年来也在顺应时代创新发展，她认为，老字号要处理好传承与创新的关系，要在创新过程中讲好老字号故事。数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
一、疫情对老字号来说，既是挑战也是契机
新京报：今年以来，各地餐饮业的“烟火气”持续恢复。从都一处的经营情况来看，你觉得有哪些和疫情前相比不一样的地方？数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
吴华侠：目前餐饮业恢复迅速，就拿都一处来说，今年元旦期间，都一处客流几乎已恢复到疫情之前的状态，春节过后，就餐排队已成常态。我觉得跟疫情前相比，客流构成发生了很大变化。以往，都一处前门店主要依靠外地游客，现在前来就餐的顾客中，本地顾客占了很大比例，之所以有这些变化，跟我们疫情期间积极“走出去”有关。
我认为疫情对老字号企业来说，既是挑战，也是契机。比如我们在疫情期间，采取了很多的自救措施，线上线下促销、走进社区推广营养餐，接触了很多的社区和人群，每次我都会为他们讲述都一处的品牌故事，扩大了品牌的知名度。
新京报：你们走进社区，做了哪些事情？有什么感受？取得了哪些效果？
吴华侠：在外地游客眼里，都一处是一家很有名的老字号。但我们走进社区做活动才发现，一些住在北城的居民甚至从未听说过“都一处”，确实让我很吃惊。
在疫情期间，我们给周边社区提供价格优惠的工作餐，每到一个社区，我都会给他们讲“都一处”的品牌故事。都一处开业于清朝乾隆三年（1738），原先是个小馆子，主要经营烧麦、炸三角、马莲肉等菜，店主姓王。据传，在乾隆十七年（1752），皇帝下通州私访，回京到前门一带时正值农历大年三十，天色已晚，街上很多店铺都打烊了，只有一家店仍开门营业。乾隆一行3人进店吃饭，当询问起店名时，被告知小店还没有名字。想着年三十还开门营业的，京城就只有这一处了，于是起名“都一处”。几天后，就有人送来了一块“都一处”的牌匾，正是乾隆皇帝御笔赏赐的。于是，人们口中的“王记酒铺”正式改名为“都一处”。
除了讲故事，我们还经常组织社区居民体验烧麦制作。从和面、揪剂、打底、擀皮、压花开始，做一个烧麦要16道工序，一张烧麦皮要擀出24个褶，代表24个节气……很多居民听完故事体验制作烧麦，也体会了为什么这种技艺成为非遗。
我们的活动让越来越多的本地居民成为“粉丝”。尤其在疫情期间，来都一处就餐的顾客中，80%都是居住在北京城的回头客。数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
二、消费者口味在变，产品推陈出新不可或缺
新京报：老字号的优势在于“老”，面对年轻的消费者，你认为老字号应如何推陈出新？
吴华侠：消费者的口味在变，产品的推陈出新不可或缺。就拿都一处来讲，我们结合时令特点推出了很多新产品。近年来，都一处在恢复一些老菜式和老工艺，投入了很大的人力、物力和财力。比如，大约有200年历史的经典菜式马莲肉、糟肉和炸三角目前都得到了恢复。
我们还推出了“四季时令烧麦”“五谷烧麦”，结合重大节点推出“70年大庆团圆烧麦”“奥运炫彩烧麦”等22种新产品。此外，还有“冬奥冰奥烧麦”，取自冰墩墩的黑白两色，这款冰皮烧麦限量供应，一经推出就被抢购一空。
未来，我们还将推出烤鸭烧麦。我们也在计划做冷链，让外地游客不用来北京就能品尝到地道的都一处美味。
新京报：你如何看待老字号的传承和创新发展？数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
吴华侠：老字号如何传承和发展，最根本的是处理好传承和创新的关系，无传承不叫老字号，不创新没有新生命。创新过了，会失去原有的味道，创新不够，又和现实脱节，这个度很难把握。
同时，老字号基本的品质不能变，比如核心产品、诚信理念、经营特色。拿“真材实料、做工考究”来说，材和料可以变，真和实不能变，做工可以变，考究二字不能丢。老字号的传承不能变，但可以把老字号与当代的数字文化结合、新消费模式结合，打造有品质、有趣味、有文化的体验经历。
三、用数字化把“老字号”博物馆集群搬上“云端”
新京报：今年政府工作报告中提出，要扩大内需，把恢复和扩大消费摆在优先位置。你如何看待老字号企业在扩大消费中的作用？在激发消费活力方面，都一处有何亮点？
吴华侠：从我自身所处的老字号餐饮行业来讲，我认为，老字号与百姓生活密切相关，是做好恢复和扩大消费工作的一个重要切入点。数据显示，今年春节假期，老字号的线上消费保持比较快的增长速度，餐饮外卖消费同比增长13.5%，拉动商务部重点监测零售企业销售额同比增长6.8%，成为消费市场的一大亮点。
老字号从来不缺故事，但讲好故事不容易。品牌力源于质量过硬的产品和服务，持续苦练“内功”依旧是老字号适应现代市场要求和节奏的首要任务。
去年7月以来，我们在前门大街推出和各大老字号跨界融合的非遗体验项目，希望为市民提供花样繁多的老字号消费体验。目前最受欢迎的线路之一是，可以先去内联升体验纳鞋底，再去广誉远(600771)亲手制作药丸，饿了就到都一处品尝烧麦，酒足饭饱，再到吴裕泰感受一把茶文化，要是累了，还可以去天乐园戏楼听京剧……一连串走下来，让人过足了瘾。数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
这项体验活动试行以来，取得了很好的效果。前来参加的有不少年轻人，还有带着孩子来的。很多老字号品牌可以跨界合作，形成“1+1>2”的效果，让整个商圈的老字号都动起来，激活消费新活力。这项活动，我们还将持续开展。
新京报：今年两会，你提出建立国家级“老字号”数字博物馆，运用数字技术助力文化产业品牌发展的建议，你是怎么考虑的？
吴华侠：从今年春节假期的消费数据来看，如今市场已经回暖，回到久违的线下场景，现在需要更多互动体验，使消费更快热起来。
依托北京建设“博物馆之城”的目标，老字号博物馆借势应运而生。仅前门大街中轴线旁就有全聚德(002186)、都一处、便宜坊、红星二锅头、同仁堂(600085)等著名老字号品牌博物馆（展示馆）。这些博物馆（展示馆），集中反映了北京城的历史变迁与产业经济发展记载。
我认为，老字号企业可以利用自己打造的博物馆，围绕“主题散点串联式文物”的传播、展示方式，以创新为源，整合资源、串珠成链，同时发展集文化、商业、旅游于一体的综合业态模式，推动“老字号”博物馆集群式发展，形成规模效应，打出知名度，叫响“老字号”博物馆群品牌，促进“老字号”产业振兴、非物质文化遗产传承保护、文旅融合。数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
我建议统筹建设国家级数字化“老字号”博物馆，将“老字号”博物馆集群搬上“云端”，通过数字技术，推动“老字号”博物馆多样化业务开展和大数据生产、传播、应用，开展云典藏、云展览、云交易、云美育、云场馆等新业态，为弘扬中华优秀传统文化，讲好中国故事，传播中国声音，促进中华优秀传统文化的创造性转化、创新性发展打造新平台。
翻译：
This year’s government work report emphasizes that restoring and expanding consumption is a priority. “How to stimulate the vitality of consumption” has become a hot topic for deputies and members of this year’s two sessions.
Wu Huaxia, a deputy to the National People’s Congress, former deputy manager of a store in Beijing and chief chef of Shumai, felt particularly deeply. “The media journalists who came to interview me these two days all paid attention to how time-honored brands innovate and develop and how to stimulate consumption activities.” As a new deputy to this year’s National People’s Congress, Wu Huaxia is also getting used to her status as an NPC deputy, from being nervous in front of the media at the beginning to being able to speak fluently.数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
Attending the national Two sessions for the first time, Wu Huaxia brought several suggestions, including establishing a national time-honored “digital” museum, building “blue-collar apartments”, solving the housing problem of the living service industry, and promoting the green and sustainable development of the catering industry. In an exclusive interview with the Beijing News, Wu Huaxia said that in recent years, both brands have been innovating and developing in line with The Times. In her opinion, time-honored brands should deal with the relationship between inheritance and innovation, and tell the story of time-honored brands well in the process of innovation.
The epidemic is both a challenge and an opportunity for Laozihao
Beijing News: Since the beginning of this year, the restaurant industry has continued to recover fireworks. What do you think is different from before the pandemic in terms of the operation of one place?
Wu Huaxia: At present, the catering industry is recovering quickly. Take one place in the capital for example, during the New Year’s Day this year, the passenger flow almost returned to the state before the epidemic. After the Spring Festival, the dining queue has become normal. I think the mix of passenger flow has changed a lot compared to pre-pandemic. In the past, all the former stores mainly relied on tourists from other places. Now, local customers account for a large proportion of the customers who come to eat. The reason for these changes is that we actively “go out” during the epidemic.
I think the epidemic is both a challenge and an opportunity for time-honored enterprises. For example, during the epidemic period, we took a lot of self-help measures, such as online and offline promotion, going into the community to promote nutritious meals, and contacted many communities and people. Every time, I would tell them the brand story of the same place, which expanded the popularity of the brand.
Beijing News: What did you do in your community? How do you feel? What effect has been achieved?
Wu Huaxia: In the eyes of foreign tourists, there is a very famous old brand. But I was really surprised when we went out into the community and found out that some people who lived in the North Side had never even heard of “Duduchi.”数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
During the epidemic, we provided working meals with favorable prices to the surrounding communities. In each community, I would tell them the brand story of “Duyi Place”. Opened in the third year of Qianlong’s reign in the Qing Dynasty (1738), Duyi was originally a small restaurant, mainly serving dishes such as shumai, fried triangle and maryam meat. The owner’s name was Wang. It is said that in the 17th year of Qianlong (1752), the emperor went to Tongzhou for a private visit. When he returned to Qianmen, it was the 30th day of the lunar New Year.
It was already late. Qianlong a line of 3 people into the store for dinner, when asked the name of the store, was told that the store has no name. Thinking that the New Year’s Eve is still open for business, the capital is only this place, so named “all one place”. A few days later, someone sent a “all one place” plaque, it is Emperor Qianlong’s pen reward. As a result, the “Wangji Wine Shop” as it was called was officially renamed “Duyizhe”.
In addition to telling stories, we often organize community residents to experience shumai making. Starting from making dough, pulling agent, making base, rolling skin and embossing,
In addition to telling stories, we often organize community residents to experience shumai making. Starting from making dough, pulling agent, making base, rolling skin and embossing, it takes 16 procedures to make a shaomai. A shaomai skin needs to roll out 24 folds, representing 24 solar terms… After listening to the story, many residents experienced making shumai and realized why this skill has become an intangible heritage.
Our activities have made more and more local residents become “fans”. Especially during the epidemic, 80 percent of the customers who came to the same place were repeat customers living in Beijing.
Consumer tastes are changing, product innovation is indispensable
Beijing News: The advantage of Laozihao is that it is old. Facing young consumers, how do you think Laozihao should bring forth the new?
Wu Huaxia: Consumer tastes are changing, and product innovation is indispensable. For example, we have launched many new products in accordance with the seasonal characteristics. In recent years, a great deal of manpower, material and financial resources have been invested in restoring some old dishes and techniques. For example, some 200-year-old classics like maryam pork, bad pork and fried triangle have all been revived.数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
We also launched “Four seasons of Shumai”, “five grains Shumai”, combined with major nodes launched “70 year reunion Shumai Daqing”, “Olympic dazzling Shumai” and other 22 new products. Then there’s the “Winter Olympics Ice Ao Shumai”, from Bing Dwen Dwen’s black and white color, which is available in limited quantities and sold out immediately after its launch.
In the future, we will also launch roast duck Shumai. We are also planning to build a cold chain, so that foreign tourists can taste authentic delicious places without coming to Beijing.
Beijing News: How do you view the inheritance and innovative development of time-honored brands?
Wu Huaxia: How to inherit and develop time-honored brands, the most fundamental is to handle the relationship between inheritance and innovation. Without inheritance, time-honored brands will not be called, and without innovation, there will be no new life. Innovation, will lose the original taste, innovation is not enough, and the reality of the disconnect, this degree is difficult to grasp.
At the same time, the basic quality of time-honored brands can not be changed, such as core products, integrity concept, management characteristics. Take the “real material, exquisite workmanship” for example, material and material can change, true and real can not change, workmanship can change, exquisite two words can not be lost. The heritage of time-honored brands cannot be changed. However, time-honored brands can be combined with contemporary digital culture and new consumption patterns to create high-quality, interesting and cultural experiences.
Move the “Time-honored” Museum Cluster to the “Cloud” with Digitalization
Beijing News: According to this year’s government Work report, we will expand domestic demand and give priority to the recovery and expansion of consumption. How do you see the role of time-honored enterprises in expanding consumption? Are there any bright spots in stimulating consumption?数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
Wu Huaxia: From my own position in the time-honored restaurant industry, I believe that time-honored restaurants are closely related to people’s lives, which is an important entry point for the recovery and expansion of consumption. Data show that during this year’s Spring Festival holiday, the online consumption of time-honored brands maintained a relatively fast growth rate, and the consumption of food and beverage takeout increased by 13.5% year-on-year, which led the Ministry of Commerce to monitor the sales growth of retail enterprises by 6.8% year-on-year, becoming a bright spot in the consumer market.
Laozihao is never short of stories, but telling good stories is not easy. Brand power comes from the excellent quality of products and services, continuous training of “internal skills” is still the primary task of the time-honored brand to adapt to the requirements and pace of the modern market.
Since July last year, we have launched a cross-boundary non-body examination project integrating with other time-honored brands in Qianmen Street.
Since July last year, we have launched a cross-boundary non-body examination project integrating with other time-honored brands in Qianmen Street, hoping to provide citizens with a variety of time-honored brands consumption experience. At present, one of the most popular routes is that you can first go to the Neilingsheng Body to test the soles of shoes, then go to Guangyuyuan (600771) to make pills by hand. When you are hungry, you can go to a place to taste Shumai and have a full meal and wine. Then you can go to Wu Yutai to experience the tea culture. A series of steps down, it’s addictive enough.
This experience activity has been tried out and achieved good results. There were a lot of young people and people with children. Many time-honored brands can be cross-border cooperation, forming the effect of “1+1>2”. So that the entire business circle of time-honored brands are active, activate the new vitality of consumption. We will continue to carry out this activity.
Beijing News: During this year’s two sessions, you proposed to establish a national “time-honored” digital museum and use digital technology to promote the development of cultural industry brands. What’s your consideration?
Wu Huaxia: From the consumption data of this year’s Spring Festival holiday. We can see that the market has picked up and returned to the long-lost offline scene. Now we need more interactive experiences to heat up consumption faster.数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
Relying on the goal of building “museum city” in Beijing, time-honored museums emerge at the historic moment. Just beside the central axis of Qianmen Street, there are famous time-honored brand museums (exhibition halls). Such as Quanju De (002186), Duyizhe, Bianfang, Red Star Erguotou and Tong Ren Tang (600085). These museums (exhibition halls) reflect the historical changes and industrial economic development records of Beijing.
In my opinion, time-honored enterprises can make use of their museums to focus on the dissemination and display of “themed scattered and linked cultural relics”, take innovation as the source, integrate resources and form a chain of beads. At the same time, they can develop a comprehensive business model integrating culture, commerce and tourism, promote the cluster development of “time-honored” museums, form scale effect and create popularity. Shout out the brand of “Time-honored” museum group, and promote the revitalization of “time-honored” industry. The inheritance and protection of intangible cultural heritage and the integration of culture and tourism.
I suggest building national digital “time-honored” museums as a whole, moving the “time-honored” museum cluster to the “cloud”, promoting diversified business development and big data production, dissemination and application of “time-honored” museums through digital technology. And developing new business forms such as cloud collection, cloud exhibition, cloud trading, cloud aesthetic education and cloud venues. In order to promote the excellent traditional Chinese culture, We will tell China’s stories well, spread China’s voice. And create new platforms for the creative transformation and development of fine traditional Chinese culture.数字化转型网www.szhzxw.cn
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